Mullet
Picture by Michael O' Meara of red Mullet with oranges
It’s funny how we have so many pre-conceived opinions about a great many foods. For example the head of the fish in Ireland is almost always discarded and never consumed but is considered that best part in many Asian countries, or the many offal’s such as liver, kidneys or sweetbread’s are regarded as secondary cuts of meat, this is despite these parts of the animal being the most highly regarded by gourmets around the world.
As a chef I love to be challenged with ingredients especially foods which are local but not often found on menus. Stephane of Gannet fish mongers is a great man for putting up the challenge of using different fish to me and will often arrive into Oscars with a species which is a rarity on any Irish menus. Razor clams and sand gaper are cases in point. As we have just come out of a particularly fine spell of weather I thought that a mention of what must be among the most attractive and vibrant fish which is found in Irish waters is called for. As a brief introduction to this fine fish is required, often on looking into the waters of the docks you will spy a close relative of the fish I am referring to swimming happily in some of the most suspect water imaginable, of course this is the grey mullet. Grey mullet in fact are a superb fish for the table when sourced from a clean deep water location and are similar to wild sea bass (as opposed to the truly terrible farmed variety which is all too common). But it is the red mullet which I wish to draw your attention too. The red mullet is a bright and vibrant red colour and also is highly perishable. The best indication for freshness of red mullet is the fact that the colour of the fish fades as the fish ages; also the gills should be bright red and the eyes bright. The flesh is firm and the flavour is delicate. Also this is an easy fish to overcook and must be treated with great care. But the fish when cooked correctly and served with oranges and red peppers is like placing a little bit of summer on a plate.
Red mullet with oranges and red peppers
2 red mullet fillets de-scaled and pin boned per person
1 fresh orange per person peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil
Juice of ¼ of a lemon
¼ of a red pepper per person shredded finely
1. Heat a non-stick pan until good and hot
2. Lightly season the fillets then add the olive oil to the pan.
3. Sear the fillets of mullet on the skin side for 10 seconds then turn on the hot pan.
4. Add the oranges, pepper and lemon juice and allow to cook until the mullet is lightly cooked and the flakes of the fish are just starting to separate.
You can add a few leafs of flat leaf parsley and a lightly warmed couscous flavoured with lemon makes a great accompaniment
Michael O’Meara is the chef owner of Oscars Bistro Galway city www.oscarsbistro.ie
and the photo is by Michael as well
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